Tiny open-topped baked Armenian dumplings, each smaller than a walnut, crisped in the oven then served in a garlicky yogurt broth — among the most labor-intensive and rewarding dishes in the Armenian canon.
Armenian manti are not the steamed Central Asian parcels that share their name. They are something completely different: tiny open-topped boats of dough, each no bigger than a large grape, filled with a small amount of spiced lamb, baked in the oven until crispy and golden brown, then served in a bowl with warm chicken broth and a generous spoonful of garlic-spiked yogurt ladled over the top. The combination of crispy baked dough, savory lamb, cooling tangy yogurt, and warm rich broth is one of the great flavor experiences in Armenian cuisine. Making manti is an act of devotion. The dough is rolled thin, cut into tiny squares (3-4cm), each one filled, each one formed into its little boat by pinching the sides together while leaving the top open. A pan of manti might contain two hundred individual pieces. This is grandmother food — made on special days when there is time and hands to help. In Armenian diaspora communities, manti-making sessions are social events, entire afternoons given over to rolling and pinching while people talk. The finished, raw manti can be frozen on the pan and transferred to bags, so the labor is rewarded many times over.
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