Barbados's national dish: silky polenta-like cornmeal and okra cou-cou served with flying fish steamed in a bright, peppery tomato sauce. The Caribbean's most patriotic plate.
Barbados calls itself "Little England" but its national dish is entirely African. Cou-cou is direct kin to the West African fufu and the Southern American grits — all of them descendants of the enslaved cooks who transformed whatever starch was available (corn, cassava, yam) into something that could absorb and carry the flavors of a sauce. In Barbados, cou-cou is made from cornmeal and okra, stirred constantly in a heavy pot with a cou-cou stick (a flat wooden paddle) until it achieves a smooth, lightly textured mass that holds its shape when molded. The flying fish — which genuinely fly, using wing-like pectoral fins to glide above the surface of the Caribbean Sea — is Barbados's other national symbol, appearing on the country's coat of arms. The season runs September to May. Fishing families in the small village of Oistins have cleaned and sold flying fish for generations. Steamed in a tomato and herb sauce scented with thyme, marjoram, and "shadow beni" (culantro), it flakes apart against the firm cou-cou in a combination that is both humble and absolutely perfect.
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