Fresh whole fish or fillets marinated in chermoula — Morocco's essential herb and spice marinade of cilantro, parsley, garlic, cumin, paprika, and preserved lemon — then grilled or baked until the skin chars and the flesh falls apart.
On the Atlantic coast of Morocco, from Essaouira to Agadir to the sardine port of Safi, fish is the daily food, not the occasional feast. The Atlantic is cold and rich, producing sardines, sea bream, sea bass, mackerel, and sole of extraordinary quality. Every fish market operates at dawn, and by midday the catch has reached the restaurants and households along the coast, where it will be rubbed with chermoula and sent to the heat. Chermoula is Morocco's most important marinade — a rough paste of fresh cilantro, flat-leaf parsley, garlic, cumin, sweet paprika, cayenne, saffron, lemon juice, and olive oil that is used not only for fish but for vegetables, chicken, and lamb. Its flavor is complex and harmonious: herbaceous from the cilantro and parsley, smoky and warm from the cumin and paprika, bright from the lemon, slightly funky from the preserved lemon rind that is the Moroccan cook's most powerful seasoning tool. Rubbed into the cuts made on the skin of a whole fish, pressed into every cavity, it penetrates as the fish sits and marinates. The cooking is simple because the marinade is complex. A whole fish rubbed with chermoula the night before needs nothing more than a hot grill or a very hot oven — the heat chars the skin in patches, caramelizing the sugars in the marinade, the fish steams from within, and everything arrives at the table smelling extraordinary. With it, a small plate of chermoula dipping sauce (reserved before the raw fish touches it), some warm khobz, and the Moroccan salads — taktouka, zaalouk — that always accompany a proper fish meal on this coast.
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