Triangular meat pastries baked on the outer walls of a clay tandoor — the Kazakh version filled with beef and fat-tail lamb, crispier and chunkier than any oven-baked imitation.
Samsa exists across Central Asia but each culture makes it its own. The Kazakh samsa is known for its hearty, unapologetically fatty filling — beef and lamb, finely chopped by hand rather than ground, mixed with raw onion and a generous portion of fat-tail lamb (kurdiuk) which renders inside the pastry during baking and creates a pool of rich broth in every bite. The pastry is made with a simple unleavened dough stretched thin and layered with fat for flakiness. In Kazakhstan, samsa sellers post themselves outside major mosques on Fridays and at crossroads bazaars, their clay tandoors glowing from before dawn. The samsa baked against the walls of a proper tandoor develops a particular blistered char on the side that touched the clay that is impossible to replicate in a home oven, but a very hot home oven with a preheated pizza stone gets respectably close. Kazakh samsa tends to be larger than its Uzbek cousin, and the dough is rolled thicker, giving it a more substantial chew.
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