Blini

The Cultural Story

Blini predate Christianity in Russia by centuries. They were baked as offerings to the pagan deity Yarilo — a sun god — and their round golden shape was deliberate symbolism: the sun returning after winter. When Christianity arrived, the Church could not extinguish the tradition. Instead, it became Maslenitsa, the weeklong pre-Lenten festival that functions as Russia's Mardi Gras. For seven days before the 40-day fast of Lent, Russians eat blini continuously — with butter, with sour cream, with jam, with caviar if you're lucky. The first blini of the batch is traditionally left on the windowsill for the souls of the dead. Russian blini are not the French crêpe, though the two are frequently confused. The authentic version uses a yeast batter that rests and ferments for an hour or more, developing tiny bubbles that give the finished pancake its characteristic lacy holes and slightly tangy flavor. The result is lighter than a crêpe but more substantial than a buckwheat galette — a hybrid texture that is uniquely Russian. Buckwheat flour can be substituted for half the all-purpose flour for a nuttier, more traditional version. The toppings are the canvas. The simplest version is just smetana — a spoonful of cold, thick sour cream against the warm pancake. More indulgent is a schmear of butter, a curl of smoked salmon, and a few eggs of salmon roe. The most formal blini are topped with beluga caviar and eaten standing with a glass of very cold vodka. Whatever the topping, the etiquette is the same: fold into quarters, or roll; eat in two bites; pour more batter immediately.