Cold-marinated fish slices crisped in hot oil, then bathed in a warm soy-star anise glaze — a hallmark of Shanghai cold dish spreads.
Shanghai smoked fish (熏鱼, xūnyú) is one of the great paradoxes of Chinese cuisine: it contains no smoke. The name refers to the color — the deep mahogany of the braised and lacquered fish resembles smoked meat. The dish is the anchor of every Shanghai cold dish platter (冷盆), the spread served before hot dishes at weddings, New Year banquets, and family celebrations. It is prepared in two phases: the fish is first fried until golden-crisp, then immediately submerged in a spiced, fragrant braising liquid — soy, rock sugar, five-spice, star anise — and left to cool slowly, absorbing the marinade as it rests. The result is something unusual: fish that is simultaneously crisp (the outside retains some texture) and deeply flavored (the interior is fully brined). It is always served cold or at room temperature, never reheated. In Shanghai, it is made in large batches, stored in the refrigerator for the week, and served a few slices at a time with other appetizers. The flavor deepens noticeably on day two.
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