Flaky, golden pastry triangles baked in a clay tandoor oven, filled with seasoned lamb and onion — the Uzbek street food eaten hot from the oven at every market in the country.
In every bazaar in Uzbekistan, a tandoor oven glows orange from before sunrise. Around it, women and men slap unbaked samsa against its inner clay walls and pull them out minutes later, blistered and golden, smelling of lamb fat and cumin. Samsa is Uzbekistan's great street food, its portable lunch, the thing travelers eat standing up at the market with grease running down their wrists. The pastry is made with a laminated dough — rolled thin, brushed with fat, folded, rolled again — which gives each baked samsa its characteristic flaky layers. The filling is raw lamb and onion, heavily seasoned, always in a roughly 1:1 ratio by weight. The onion is what keeps the filling juicy: it releases moisture during baking and prevents the lamb from drying out. Samsa can also be made with pumpkin and onion for a vegetarian version called kadi samsa, beloved in autumn. Sesame seeds are scattered on top before baking. In home kitchens without a tandoor, a very hot oven and a pizza stone approximate the effect.
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