Delicate thin-skinned dumplings cradling a mouthful of hot pork broth and minced filling. Shanghai's greatest export — impossibly light, dangerously hot inside, requiring their own eating technique.
Xiaolongbao means "little basket buns" — named for the bamboo steamers they arrive in, stacked and steaming at the table. They were invented in Nanxiang, a small town outside Shanghai, in the 1870s, and the recipe has barely changed: thin wheat skin, pork and ginger filling, and the miracle of the soup inside. The soup is not added as liquid — that would make the skin soggy before steaming. The trick is aspic: pork skin and bones are simmered for hours until the liquid reduces to a thick gel, which is then chopped and mixed into the raw filling. The cold gel holds firm while the dumplings are assembled, but when they hit the steamer the gelatin melts back into hot broth, creating a pocket of liquid inside each sealed skin. To eat a xiaolongbao incorrectly is to lose the soup on your shirt. The technique is specific: pick up the dumpling gently (bamboo tongs or two chopstick prongs in the fold), place it on a spoon, bite a small hole in the skin, wait for the steam to clear, drink the broth from the hole, then eat the rest. Patience is rewarded. Rushing is punished by a scalded tongue.
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